so you buy some homemade butternut squash ravioli – mine came from lazarolli’s in nashville. boil them gently in salted water, careful not to burst the little pillows. and then you brown the butter. and there is a technique here because believe me, i’ve blown it before… but i’ve found quite the description of how to go about this and it comes from celia barbour’s christmastime cookie recipe – an excerpt from gourmet’s ‘diary of a foodie’.
Cut up cold butter and set it over moderate heat. When it is all golden liquid, start stirring as the butter begins to simmer. Next, a froth appears on the top; this soon gathers into little clouds, which then dissipate as the milk proteins separate from the fat, cook, and harden into tiny grains that fall to the bottom of the pan. There they’ll sit, turning brown-first pale caramel (beurre noisette), then tea-leaf (beurre noir), and finally, after about ten seconds, black (garbage). I always leave the pan on the stove a few beats beyond rosy caramel to give a deeper flavor to the cookies. Nerves of steel, I say to myself, stirring vigilantly. At the very last second, I take the pan off the stove and set it in cold water.
now we know. nerves of steel…
then chop up about 8 sage leaves and maybe 15 seconds before you think the pan is ready to take the plunge, throw in the herbs so they can flavor the butter. when you think you’re safe (temperature wise), rewarm the sauce very gently and then drizzle generously over the ravioli’s.
the final touch is unbelievable. seriously. unexpected yet sublime. i used 75% pralus. it’s my favorite brand these days. just whip out the microplane grater and do a light dusting of the best chocolate you’ve got. it’s a total wow.
then go ride your bike for 2 hours.
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in The General in His Labryinth: “Damn it, please let us have our Dark Ages in peace.” I wonder if that isn’t an important thing to keep in mind as we trying and formalize practices and policy around this movement, which is definitely gaining momentum and political clout.
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