there are a few dinners that you may have in your life that will stay with you forever – they are the pinnacle of dining in every way. i once ate at lasserre in paris, and that was pretty amazing – and it wasn’t just the food – although the food was superb, but the service was also impeccable, it was impossibly french AND the painted ceiling opened silently and suddenly we were staring up at the parisian starlit sky… it was the culmination of the entire experience that made it rise above the rest. it was a magical memory in the making. just last week i was fortunate enough to share a similar evening at ‘per se’ with my friend carol of the award winning blog, ‘french laundry at home‘. (carol recently posted a detailed account of our evening here.)
this menu was not the usual 9 course tasting. it was our menu, printed for us before we left. they had added many extra courses – nearly double, saying to carol when we sat down – as they presented her a lovely bottle of champagne, "because you cook the food…".so we began the night off with a gentle clink of our glasses – "to the best of friends and of course, to the best of food".
i took all the pics as discretely as i could (iphone) and to use these primitive shots as a recreation of the dishes that were presented before us, is almost blasphemous. but please be kind for they are for you, dear readers…
("oysters and pearls")
("citrus cured hamachi")
("white truffle oil-infused custard")
("sauteed grimaud farms "foie gras d’oie")
("terrine of gimaud farms "foie gras d’oie")
("grilled ‘pave’ of bigeye tuna")
("pan seared maine sea scallop") – chef benno forgive me for this shot
("arrowleaf spinach rigatini") – and chef benno, especially forgive me for this shot
("cavendish farm’s "caille en crepinette")
("ribeye of marcho farm’s nature fed veal, "rotie entiere")
("coffee and doughnuts")
("mont blanc")
and there were 4 more plates that i never shot. plus a few little extra courses not even on our menu (salmon tartare cornets? i am so looking at you…). and i need to tell you about one of our dishes called "smoke", as it was truly performance art. a crystal domed bowl arrived at our table filled with a pale ethereal swirling substance – and immediately, as it was placed before us, the tops were lifted and a waft of rich smokiness ascended to my nose. and there on the bottom of the bowl sat a japanese sardine with italian eggplant puree and pimenton oil. it was pretty damn cool… my glass of red wine was unlike any other i had ever tried. it definitely stood apart – it had this different vibe that i loved. and it somehow kept changing throughout the half dozen or so courses that it lasted.
i called the vineyard and they were very kind, explaining that when you fill out the waiting list form online – it then takes up to 2 years to be on their mailing list – although longer for the pinots which sell out in just over a week. before we left we were offered a tour of the kitchen…
(these low, big burnered and powerful stoves are for making stock, for instance)
(seriously perfect vegetables – rumor has it that the receiving dept turns away 75% of everything presented)
(ummm, ahhh the pacojet room?)
(where the sweets are created)
(baking the bread – also for bouchon bakery)
(a reminder for the kitchen – the definition of finesse…) when we got back to our hotel and after the bellman had brought me a cold diet dr. pepper, carol and i played the ‘if you could pick 3 courses only’ game. i struggled hard with this. and the best i could do was to narrow it down to 5 and even that was extremely difficult.
- parsnip vanilla soup with tarragon infused olive oil
- white truffle oil infused custard with a ragout of black winter truffles
- both foie gras course(s) – i can not choose between them. i just can’t, ok?
- spinach rigatini with dungeness crab, preserved lemon, basil and beurre d’oursin
- coffee and doughnuts – cause a girl’s just gotta have dessert
oh, oysters and pearls, i have not forsaken thee in all your glorious caviarness. you and the parsnip soup were so very close, but when the vanilla aroma hit my face i was a goner… ‘per se’ sends you home with a small bag of cookies to perhaps extend the experience just a bit further. i packed them and later shared them with my daughter, hoping one day i might be able to take her with me,
but for now this would have to do… a big thank you to ‘per se’ for being the most nonpretentious and exquisite restaurant i have ever dined in. the evening was a blast and your entire staff was beyond warm and kind and funny and easy going and smart and cool – with a big shout out to jonathan benno. chef benno, had you been a single man i would have kissed you on the mouth and meant it. and thanks to carol for agreeing to be my dining partner – i got very lucky on that one, no doubt. and to "M" – i owe you.
so i’m with carol in saying that we are both so incredibly fortunate. and i am unbelievably grateful and even humbled to have been able to spend 4 hours in per se’s care and experience a culinary extravaganza such as this. THANK YOU THOMAS KELLER… YOU ARE A GENIUS!
and guys? i’ll be back…
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